Какой иглой шить трикотаж?
14 августа 2017
Для начала давайте разберемся, что такое трикотаж, и почему он попал в отдельную от остальных тканей категорию.
Когда ткут полотно ткани есть нить основы и нить утка. Они складываются друг с другом перпендикулярно (крест на крест), таким образом, ряд за рядом получается тканое полотно. Вдоль нити основы и поперек такая ткань практически не тянется, она тянется по долевой, от угла к углу.
А вот трикотаж тянется в любую сторону. Это получилось за счет того, что полотно не ткут, а как бы вяжут. Есть одна нить, которая соединяется при помощи петель, как при вязании спицами. Если присмотреться, эти петли будут видны. За счет этого трикотаж получил способность к растяжимости.
Именно эти особенности ткани и обязывают нас подбирать разные иглы для работы с ними.
Универсальная игла подходит для тканых материалов. Она имеет острый кончик, и при шитье «пробивает» ткань.
Игла же для трикотажа, «джерси» и «стрейча» имеет закруглённый кончик, таким образом, она не «пробивает» ткань, а как бы раздвигает нити.
А если для трикотажа использовать обычную иглу, она острым кончиком «пробьёт» нить, и петли начнут распускаться. Так происходит при вязании, когда пропускаешь петлю. И на вашем новеньком красивом творении пойдут стрелки от швов.
Иглы - это ваши основные помощники. Обращайте внимание на толщину и назначение иглы. Выбирайте помощников соответствующих ткани, ведь ткань главная в этом спектакле. И тогда процесс пошива одежды, а главное и результат, будет доставлять вам только удовольствие.
Шить проще, чем кажется.
Метки: Иглы, Инструменты, Учимся шить
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